AN ‘UNCONVENTIONAL’ LADAKH ROAD TRIP

September 24, 2019 · Archie

TOTAL DURATION : 14 Days.

ROUTE / CIRCUIT : Ambala – Chandigarh – Manali – Rohtang – Jispa – Baralach La – Sarchu – Lachulung La – Pang – Debring – Tso Kar – Tso Moriri – Nyoma – Loma – Demchok – Rezang La – Chushul – Pangong Tso – Durbuk – Shyok – Agham – Khalsar – Panamik – Siachen Base – Diskit – Hunder – Turtuk – Khalsar – Wari La – Sakti – Karu – Leh – Alchi – Khalsi – Khangral – Batalik – Kargil – Dras – Mushkoh – Zojila – Sonamarg – Srinagar – Ramban – Udhampur – Pathankot – Hoshiarpur – Balachaur – Chandigarh – Ambala

TOTAL EXPENDITURE : Rs 20,000 – 22,000 (Per Head).

HIGHLIGHTS OF TRIP : 1. Cover both ‘famous’ high altitude lakes on Manali-Leh route – Tso Kar & Tso Moriri. 2. Highest motorable passes existing (Umling La/Marsemik La) & reaching closest to China border (Demchok Village). 3. Complete stretch of Pangong in India from ‘reverse’ China border side. 4. Famous war memorial site of Rezang La. 5. Ride all the way to Marsemik La & then from Shyok Agham side to Nubra Valley. 6. End points of both Nubra valley circuits – Turtuk & Siachen Base. 7. Unconventional return route from Nubra valley via Wari La. 8. Batalik & Aryan villages along old Indus Valley road. 9. Picturesque Mushkoh valley stretch.

Ladakh is known for its unparalleled natural beauty which is pristine and ethereal, magical and timeless. Here the nature mesmerises you with its calmness and peace, the magical Himalayas makes it as one of the most sought after adventure destinations. It’s known for its stunning landscapes, high altitude lakes, and monasteries. It also happens to be a cold, harsh desert where temperatures remain below freezing for two-third part of the year.

This region has seen an increased influx of visitors in last 10-15 years and this number will keep on increasing by each year passing, especially now Ladakh being declared as Union Territory. A road trip to this ‘Heaven on Earth’ has become a kind of ritual for almost every ‘Road Tripper’ & ‘Biker’ with “Run of the Mills” Ladakh road trips being conducted by almost every alternate tour operator in North India – offering the achievement of ‘Been There Done That’ feeling to each traveller.

I can now call myself a ‘Ladakh-fanatic’, being already made four trips to this extremely picturesque locale, and yet this region keeps offering more & more to me in terms of terrain, adventure, people & culture. So, this time I once again wanted to stretch the limits of exploring this mesmerising jewel of India, this time I wanted to touch those locations & traverse those routes which have rarely been imagined by the conventional visitor, and this time I wanted to unravel those areas which do not figure in any kind of tour operator’s itinerary or in any travel magazine. Hence, the birth of this ‘Unconventional Ladakh Road Trip’ happened – first in my head, then on paper & finally on ground.

Firstly, let me clarify that the route which was touted as one of the toughest & most adventurous till few years back for any drive/ride is no longer the case now. So, if any Road Tripper or Biker is looking for an adventurous route in heading to Leh (either via Manali or Srinagar), please look elsewhere, because these two routes (Manali-Leh & Srinagar-Leh) are now throughout like Expressways. These two circuits are well-laid out newly resurfaced Black-Top roads all along which can be even done on a 90cc Scooty or 650cc Tata Nano very easily, the only challenge remains in terms of unpredictability in weather & varying altitudes

There’s been a very famous anecdote about Bullet motorcycles related to Ladakh road trips – “If your Bullet has not done Leh Trip, it’s still a Virgin !!!” I would only like to make a small statement on this – “If your Bullet (or any other Bike) has only done conventional Leh road trip (with the usuals such as Khardung La or Chang La or Pangong thrown in) in present scenario, it’s just Foreplay you’ve done, Bike’s still a Virgin !!!” So, having said that, I decided to go beyond the conventional & do the ‘Unconventional’ Ladakh road trip – touch some ‘untouched’ parts, explore some ‘unexplored’ areas, on a road not ‘lesser’ travelled, but ‘rarely’ travelled. This formed the basis of a two week long absolutely ‘non-touristy’ hard-core road trip, covering more than 3000 kms in total & traversing through highly rugged but most picturesque terrain of Ladakh region. In this blog, I am covering few very important aspects of all possible circuits in the entire Ladakh & Kashmir regions – suitably dividing them into cardinal sectors and further into sub-sectors. Various aspects covered in each of these sub-sectors are purely in terms of road trip through these circuits and will be useful as a ‘Ready Reckoner’ for anybody planning road trip in this region.

HIMACHAL & SOUTHERN LADAKH

1. Chandigarh – Manali

(a)RouteChandigarh – Pinjore – Baddi – Nalagarh – Swarghat – Bilaspur – Sundernagar – Mandi – Pandoh – Kullu – Manali
(b)Distance
  • Chandigarh to Swarghat – 80 kms
  • Swarghat to Mandi – 110 kms
  • Mandi to Manali – 110 kms
  • Total Distance – 300 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Chandigarh to Pinjore is excellent 4-Lane road with divider.
  • Pinjore to Swarghat is 2-Lane without divider, with much lesser traffic, however with a few highs and lows as well as blind curves.
  • Swarghat to Mandi is a hilly 2-lane road with heavy truck and tourist vehicular traffic.
  • Mandi to Kullu is a good mountainous road through the Beas River valley; traffic reduces to LMVs.
  • Kullu to Manali: Take the left bank route for lesser traffic and more scenic views.
(d)Driving/Riding Time8–9 hours
(e)Average Speed35–40 kmph
(f)Highest Altitude2,100 m (Manali)
(g)HighlightsPandoh Dam
(h)Difficult Patches
  • Swarghat – Bilaspur – Mandi stretch (heavy traffic)
  • Kullu to Manali left bank road (broken in initial parts)
(j)Halts/Food
  • Food and halt options are available in plenty throughout the route.
  • Breakfast after crossing Swarghat.
  • Lunch at Kullu / Patlikuhl (Fresh Trout).
(k)Support Available Through the RouteBoth medical and fuel support is available throughout the route.
(l)Detours
  • Nalagarh Fort Hotel
  • Joginder Nagar
  • Parvati Valley
  • Naggar Fort
(m)Stay Options
  • Manali has lots of options, including both Army and civilian accommodation.
  • Preferably stay on the Left Bank road short of Manali to avoid the rush in Manali town.
(n)Misc. InfoExpect adequate traffic throughout the route.

2. Manali – Sarchu

(a)RouteManali – Marhi – Rohtang – Gramphu – Khoksar – Tandi – Keylong – Jispa – Patseo – Zingzing Bar – Baralach La – Bharatpur – Sarchu
(b)Distance
  • Manali to Gramphu – 70 kms
  • Gramphu to Jispa – 75 kms
  • Jispa – Baralach La – 55 kms
  • Baralach La to Sarchu – 35 kms
  • Total Distance – 235 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Manali to Rohtang: Majority good road except for 1–2 bad stretches. Can expect 1–2 road blocks and delays.
  • Rohtang to Gramphu: Extremely bad and broken stretch of 8–10 kms. Avoid during heavy rains with long stretches of heavy slush.
  • Gramphu to Keylong has very good BT road without any problems.
  • Keylong to Patseo is a decently good road. Few streams enroute – 1–2 major ones, and Darcha bridge is under construction.
  • Patseo to Baralach La has newly resurfaced BT road in good condition, but with steep ascent.
  • Baralach La to Sarchu: Descent from Baralach La is bad and treacherous with a few tricky nallas/streams to cross. Bharatpur and 15–20 kms beyond that is a bad stretch.
  • Last 15 odd kms to Sarchu is good and very picturesque.
(d)Driving/Riding Time9–10 hours
(e)Average Speed30 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes4,900 m (Baralach La) & 4,300 m (Sarchu)
(g)Highlights
  • Two high altitude passes – Rohtang & Baralach La
  • Two high altitude lakes – Deepak Tal & Suraj Tal
  • Vast cultivation stretch of Sissu
  • Picturesque Sarchu river-canyon valley
(h)Difficult Patches
  • Manali to Rohtang stretch: One minor road block near Marhi with rubble and slush.
  • Rohtang to Gramphu: 8–10 kms of very bad and broken stretch.
  • Baralach La to Bharatpur: Treacherous descent and Bharatpur Nala difficult to negotiate.
(j)Halts/Food
  • Gramphu Dhaba for breakfast
  • Keylong / Jispa – alternate options
  • Bharatpur Dhabas for lunch
  • Sarchu Camps
(k)Support
  • Keylong – major town with medical and other facilities
  • Tandi is the last petrol pump on this route
  • Sarchu Army Transit Camp
(l)Detours
  • Batal & Chandertal
  • Shinku La
  • Udaipur / Killar / Sach Pass
(m)Stay Options
  • Jispa Camps by the River
  • Bharatpur Dhabas for basic stay (Emergency)
  • Sarchu Civil Camps & Army Transit Camp
(n)Misc Info
  • Avoid staying overnight above 4000 m without acclimatisation.
  • Obtain Rohtang & other Himachal permits from DC Office Manali.
  • Leave Manali early to avoid traffic till Rohtang (Gulaba CP opens at 0600h).
  • CPs at Gulaba / Khoksar / Darcha / Sarchu – permits will be checked.

3. Sarchu – Upshi

(a)RouteSarchu – Gata Loops – Nakee La – Lachulung La – Pang – Morey Plains – Debring – Tanglang La – Rumtse – Upshi
(b)Distance
  • Sarchu to Pang – 80 kms
  • Pang to Debring – 55 kms
  • Debring to Upshi – 75 kms
  • Total Distance – 210 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Sarchu onwards road is good till Gata Loops.
  • Road condition of Gata Loops & Nakee La is decent but extremely steep.
  • Slight descent from Nakee La and ascent again to Lachulung La is bad and broken. Careful and deliberate drive/ride required.
  • Pang valley road is good – slight climb up to Morey Plains is also decent.
  • Morey Plains is newly resurfaced and very good BT road for 40 kms till Debring. Be extremely careful about bumps and causeways in-between – bike skidding is highly possible.
  • Steep ascent post Debring to Tanglang La and all the way down to Rumtse; road condition is quite good.
  • Rumtse to Upshi is along the Indus River and all good road in plains.
(d)Driving/Riding Time9–10 hours
(e)Average Speed30–35 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes5,100 m (Lachulung La) & 5,300 m (Tanglang La)
(g)Highlights
  • Three high altitude passes – Nakee La, Lachulung La & Tanglang La
  • Gata Loops – hair-raising 21 hair-pin bends
  • Morey Plains & plenty of off-roading opportunities (Recommended to be avoided)
  • Beautiful Pang valley
(h)Difficult Patches7–8 kms stretch on both sides of Lachulung La is totally stones and dusty.
(j)Halts/Food
  • Few Dhabas post Nakee La for breakfast
  • Pang / Debring Dhabas for lunch
  • Rumtse village
(k)Support
  • Sarchu Army Transit Camp
  • Pang / Debring / Rumtse – very limited, only emergency support
(l)DetoursTso Kar & Tso Moriri Lake circuit
(m)Stay Options
  • Sarchu Civil Camps & Army Transit Camp
  • Pang & Debring Dhabas (Emergency)
  • Upshi village & limited Army accommodation
(n)Misc Info
  • Avoid staying overnight above 4000 m without acclimatisation.
  • Morey Plains is very vulnerable to accidents – drive carefully.
  • Avoid off-roading – it is not only unsafe for your own safety but also spoils the natural habitat as well as flora and fauna of the place.
  • CPs at Sarchu / Pang / Upshi – permits will be checked.

EASTERN LADAKH

4. Tso Kar – Tso Moriri Lake Circuit

(a)RouteDebring – Thukje – Tso Kar – Puga – Sumdo – Karzok – Tso Moriri – Sumdo – Mahe – Nyoma
(b)Distance
  • Debring to Tso Kar – 33 kms
  • Tso Kar to Sumdo – 37 kms
  • Sumdo to Tso Moriri – 50 kms
  • Tso Moriri to Nyoma – 80 kms
  • Total Distance – 200 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Debring to Tso Kar via Thukje village is a narrow, broken BT road.
  • Ahead of Tso Kar, the road is completely broken and in bad state.
  • Totally barren stretch all the way to Sumdo via Puga. Very few good patches of road in-between – it is a completely broken dirt track.
  • Decent road ahead of Sumdo towards Tso Moriri, with bad patches in-between.
  • Post Kyagar Tso, the last 10–15 kms stretch is totally on stones and dust till Karzok.
  • On return, Sumdo to Mahe is a decent road; post Mahe, widening work is on till Nyoma.
(d)Driving/Riding Time9–10 hours
(e)Average Speed25–30 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes4,600 m (Tso Moriri)
(g)Highlights
  • Three high altitude lakes – Tso Kar, Tso Moriri & Kyagar Tso
  • Absolute wilderness & barren stretches of South-Eastern Ladakh
  • Plenty of Ladakh wildlife on offer
  • Puga Hot Springs
(h)Difficult Patches
  • Between Tso Kar & Puga, it’s all rubble and stones – may find 1–2 streams with broken culverts.
  • Few tricky ascents and descents either side of Puga village with many off-road tracks emerging. Careful with directions.
  • 10–12 kms stretch from Kyagar Tso to Karzok is completely broken and is on stones, rubble and dust.
(j)Halts/FoodSumdo (Limited options)
(k)Support
  • Small Army detachment at Sumdo
  • ITBP camp at Karzok
(l)Detours
  • East bank of Tso Moriri & Chumar post
(m)Stay Options
  • Tso Kar – Camps & huts
  • Tso Moriri – Camps & homestay
  • Nyoma Army accommodation
(n)Misc Info
  • Avoid staying overnight above 4000 m without acclimatisation.
  • Tso Kar is almost dried up post September and should not be ventured into.
  • Explore the eastern bank road of Tso Moriri – excellent road condition and unmatched views of Tso Moriri.
  • Need ILP (issued from DC Office Leh) at Mahe CP for Nyoma.

5. Nyoma – Chushul – Pangong

(a)RouteNyoma – Loma – Tsaga – Rezang La – Chushul – Merak/Man – Spangmik – Pangong Tso
(b)Distance
  • Nyoma to Tsaga – 55 kms
  • Tsaga to Chushul – 35 kms
  • Chushul to Spangmik / Pangong – 55 kms
  • Total Distance – 145 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Nyoma to Loma stretch is main road, but road widening work has made conditions bad.
  • Good narrow BT road ahead of Loma all the way till Tsaga / Tara Post CP.
  • Post Tsaga village, road condition deteriorates and broken / dirt track starts post Tsaga La.
  • Tsaga to Chushul – the road is totally broken and bad with few difficult water crossings.
  • Chushul onwards till touching Pangong Tso, no proper road exists – drive / ride through river bed with stones & soft white sand. New BT road under construction.
  • Road along Pangong via Merak / Man / Spangmik villages is mostly non-existent and muddy / slushy with stones and rubble.
  • Ahead of Spangmik, road becomes better till Lukung (Main Pangong Tso end).
(d)Driving/Riding Time7–8 hours
(e)Average Speed25–30 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes4,700 m (Tsaga La) & 4,300 m (Pangong Tso)
(g)Highlights
  • Circuit closest to Chinese border (Few Border Outposts can be visited)
  • Absolute wilderness & barren stretches of Eastern Ladakh
  • Plenty of Ladakh wildlife on offer
  • Arguably the most picturesque part of entire Ladakh
  • Drive / ride along almost complete stretch of Pangong Tso lake on Indian side
(h)Difficult Patches
  • Parts of road submerged under Indus river water short of Loma.
  • Either side of Tsaga La is broken & barren – difficult descent post pass.
  • 2–3 extremely difficult & deep stream crossings between Tsaga & Chushul.
  • Chushul to Pangong & along Pangong – no specific route exists. Traverse through river beds & lake back waters.
(j)Halts/FoodChushul (Limited options)
(k)SupportSmall Army dets at Tsaga & Chushul
(l)Detours
  • Hanle & Umling La (Officially Highest Motorable route)
  • Last border outpost on Indo-China border – Demchok (With Special permission)
  • Indo-China border posts of Tara / Heena / Rohit / Thakung
  • Chushul – Nama – Kaksang La axis
(m)Stay Options
  • Merak / Man (Few homestays)
  • Spangmik (Camps & homestay)
  • Chushul Army accommodation
(n)Misc Info
  • Need ILP (Issued from DC Office Leh) at Loma CP for further move.
  • Look out for herds of Kiangs (Ladakh Wild Asses) all through the route.
  • Sensitive LAC area – seek special permission from Army authorities.
  • Special permission from Army authorities for Demchok & Umling La (No mobiles / cameras allowed).

NORTHERN LADAKH

6. Pangong – Shyok – Nubra

(a)RouteSpangmik – Lukung – Tangtse – Dubruk – Shyok – Agham – Khalsar – Diskit – Hunder – Nubra
(b)Distance
  • Spangmik to Tangtse – 45 kms
  • Tangtse to Shyok – 30 kms
  • Shyok to Khalsar – 75 kms
  • Khalsar to Nubra – 35 kms
  • Total Distance – 185 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Spangmik to Lukung is along the lake & is decent road.
  • Lukung to Tangtse & Durbuk is good BT road all the way with 1-2 small stream crossings in-between.
  • Durbuk to Shyok is good decent road with few extremely steep elevations.
  • Shyok to Agham is mostly new surfaced BT road, but with 3-4 extremely difficult & deep water crossings.
  • Agham to Khalsar is also decent BT road with few steep ascents. Post Khalsar till Hunder & Nubra is very good road.
(d)Driving/Riding Time5-6 hours
(e)Average Speed35 kmph
(f)Highest AltitudesMostly 3000-3500m throughout
(g)Highlights
  • Unconventional route & very picturesque Shyok river valley
  • Plenty of interesting detours, major ones being the DBO road to Karakoram Ranges and to Siachen Base Camp
  • Sand dunes & Bactarian Camels at Hunder
(h)Difficult Patches
  • 2-3 extremely bad & deep water crossings between Shyok & Agham
  • 3-4 kms of broken stretch of road through Shyok river bed just before Agham
(j)Halts/Food
  • Tangtse / Durbuk for B’fast
  • Agham / Khalsar for Lunch
(k)SupportArmy dets at Shyok & Khalsar
(l)Detours
  • Phobrang & Marsemik La (Officially 2nd highest motorable road in world)
  • DBO road to Murgo & Karakoram ranges
  • Agham – Wari La – Sakti route
  • Panamik – Sasoma – Siachen Base Camp axis
(m)Stay Options
  • Tangtse & Durbuk (Few homestays & Army accomodation)
  • Shyok village (Basic homestays)
  • Khalsar Army accomodation
(n)Misc Info
  • Start early morning to cross heavy water crossings on Shyok-Agham route in time
  • Very less traffic & support on this route – keep your spares & back-up in place
  • Both DBO axis & Siachen Base Camp axis requires special permits from Army authorities – regular ILP won’t be sufficient
  • Look out for beautiful Eco Camps/Resorts & Homestays in Hunder (More touristy) and Sumur / Tigar villages (Off the beaten track)

7. Turtuk – Siachen Base Camp Circuits

(a)RouteKhalsar – Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sasoma – Siachen Base – Panamik – Diskit – Hunder – Thoise – Changmar – Chalunka – Turtuk – RD ‘0’ – Turtuk – Changmar – Hunder
(b)Distance
  • Diskit to Sasoma – 70 kms
  • Sasoma to Siachen & back – 90 kms
  • Sasoma to Hunder – 75 kms
  • Hunder to Turtuk – 85 kms
  • Turtuk to RD ‘0’ & back to Hunder – 105 kms
  • Total Distance – 235 kms (Siachen Circuit) & 190 kms (Turtuk Circuit)
(c)Road Conditions
  • Diskit to Panamik / Sasoma & all the way to Siachen Base is good BT road.
  • 1-2 bad stretches & minor stream crossings short of Siachen Base.
  • Hunder to Changmar is good BT road with few highs & lows in between.
  • Descent from Changmar to Bogdang village is steep and road till Chalunka is broken at few places.
  • Further road condition in beautiful Turtuk valley is very good till Tyakshi (last village on Indian side).
(d)Driving/Riding Time6-7 hours (Siachen Circuit) & 5-6 hours (Turtuk Circuit)
(e)Average Speed35-40 kmph
(f)Highest AltitudesMostly 3000-3500m throughout
(g)Highlights
  • Two Northernmost road-heads of the country – Siachen Base & RD ‘0’
  • Two extremely beautiful river valley routes (Along Nubra river & Shyok river)
  • Seabuckthorn plantations in plenty along Nubra river & Panamik Hot Springs
  • Picturesque Turtuk valley & Hunder Dunes + Camels
(h)Difficult Patches
  • 1-2 minor stream crossings & bad patch before Siachen Base Camp
  • Minor 2-3 kms bad stretch between Changmar & Chalunka on Turtuk axis
(j)Halts/Food
  • Sumur / Panamik on Siachen axis
  • Turtuk / Garadi for Lunch on Turtuk axis
(k)Support
  • Public Health Centres at Sumur / Panamik
  • Military stations / dets at Partapur / Changmar / Turtuk
(l)Detours
  • Diskit Monastery & Tirit village
  • Sasoma – Murgo route towards DBO (Not through as of now)
(m)Stay Options
  • Sumur & Diskit (Basic homestays & Camps)
  • Hunder (Plenty of Camps / Resorts)
  • Partapur / Hunder Army accommodation
  • Turtuk (Few Homestays available)
(n)Misc Info
  • Start early morning if you want to cover both axes on same day.
  • Special permission from Army authorities – to visit both Siachen Base & RD ‘0’ (No bikes or mobiles allowed).
  • With normal ILP (from DC Office Leh) – visit upto Sasoma & Turtuk.
  • Look out for beautiful Eco Camps / Resorts & Homestays in Hunder (More touristy) and Sumur / Tigar villages (Off the beaten track).

8. Nubra – Wari La – Leh

(a)RouteHunder – Diskit – Khalsar – Agham – Thangyar – Wari La – Sakti – Karu – Leh
(b)Distance
  • Hunder to Agham – 60 kms
  • Agham to Sakti – 65 kms
  • Sakti to Leh – 50 kms
  • Total Distance – 175 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Hunder to Agham via Khalsar is good BT road with few highs & lows.
  • From Agham, turn towards Wari La on internal Thangyar road – slightly broken, narrow & no traffic.
  • Post Thangyar, steep ascent towards Wari La (New resurfacing under progress).
  • 8-10 kms either side of Wari La, the road is totally broken with extremely steep ascent/descent.
  • Further descent (post initial 10 kms) from Wari La till Sakti is decent BT road.
  • Sakti onwards, excellent wide roads till Leh.
(d)Driving/Riding Time6-7 hours
(e)Average Speed30 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes5300 m (Wari La)
(g)Highlights
  • Unconventional & Untouched axis between Nubra & Leh
  • Wari La is extremely beautiful & totally unexplored high altitude pass
  • Wild Yaks & Horses in abundance throughout the route
  • Shey Palace & Thiksey Monasteries enroute
(h)Difficult Patches
  • About 10 kms both sides of Wari La is totally broken and have very steep ascent/descent along with snow/water on the road (Very careful & deliberate driving/riding).
  • Minor 2-3 kms bad stretch between Agham & Thangyar.
(j)Halts/Food
  • Khalsar / Agham for B’fast
  • Sakti / Karu for Lunch
(k)Support
  • Basic Army / civil support at Khalsar
  • Military station at Karu
(l)Detours
  • Khardung La from Khalsar
  • Hemis Monastery & Chumathang hot springs
  • Choglamsar village
(m)Stay Options
  • Karu (both Army & civil accomodation)
  • Leh town (Plenty of accomodation)
(n)Misc Info
  • Extremely isolated stretch between Agham & Sakti – Cater for own spares/back up.
  • Clear off Wari La before noon – to avoid melted snow/water on the upper region – can get extremely tricky on the broken steep ascent/descent from the pass.

WESTERN LADAKH AND BALANCE J & K

9. Leh – Kargil – Dras

(a)RouteLeh – Nimmu – Alchi – Khalsi – Lamayuru – Fotu La – Khangral – Mulbekh/Batalik – Kargil – Dras
(b)Distance
  • Leh to Khalsi – 100 kms
  • Khalsi to Khangral – 60 kms
  • Khangral to Batalik – 55 kms
  • Batalik to Kargil – 55 kms
  • Kargil to Dras – 65 kms
  • Total Distance – 335 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Leh to Khalsi & further to Khangral is excellent wide BT road. Main diversion for Batalik from Khalsi (Take this for Batalik in case want to skip Lamayuru & Fatu La).
  • Diversion at Khangral for Batalik (Khangral-Sanjak Link Road). Narrow road all along valley – broken at many places & through small Ladakhi-Muslim villages.
  • Join Leh-Batalik road (Indus Valley road) at Sanjak. Narrow mountainous decent road with few bad stretches in between.
  • Batalik to Kargil via Hamboting La is in bad condition for initial 30-35 kms, then good BT road till Kargil.
  • Kargil to Dras is excellent BT road (Take Kargil bye-pass road).
(d)Driving/Riding Time9-10 hours
(e)Average Speed40-45 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes4200 m (Fatu La) & 4100 m (Hamboting La)
(g)Highlights
  • Zanskar-Indus Sangam & River Rafting in Zanskar
  • Lamayuru / Alchi Monastery & Moonland
  • Indus Valley road & original Aryan villages of Dah / Garkone / Darchik
  • Batalik / Kargil / Dras sectors of Operation Vijay (Kargil War 1999) & Dras War Memorial
(h)Difficult Patches
  • 30 kms stretch from Khangral to Sanjak is bad & broken at places.
  • 30-35 kms stretch after Batalik towards Kargil is bad with 10 kms ascent/descent on either side of Hamboting La is totally broken.
(j)Halts/Food
  • Khalsi / Alchi for B’fast
  • Lamayuru & Khangral
  • Batalik / Kargil for Lunch
(k)Support
  • Basic Army / civil support at Khalsi / Khangral
  • Army dets at Darchik / Batalik
  • Military stations at Kargil & Dras
(l)Detours
  • Chilling along Zanskar valley
  • Likir & Alchi monasteries
  • Two detours to Aryan valley & Batalik
  • Kargil – Padum axis
(m)Stay Options
  • Alchi & Lamayuru (Local homestays)
  • Batalik & Aryan villages (Emergency stay)
  • Kargil & Dras (both Army & civil accomodation)
(n)Misc Info
  • Few ‘touristy’ options while leaving from Leh on this axis, such as Pathhar Sahab Gurudwara, river rafting, monasteries etc – Plan your move accordingly.
  • Consider internal Khangral-Sanjak route only if you want to see Lamayuru & Moonland, else take Batalik diversion from Khalsi.
  • Absolutely no support of any kind on Batalik-Kargil route – plan own spares & back-up.
  • Kargil War Memorial at Dras closes around 6PM, plan to reach in time for this ‘must-visit’.

10. Dras – Srinagar – Udhampur

(a)RouteDras – Zojila – Sonamarg – Kangan – Srinagar – Qazigund – Banihal – Ramban – Batote – Udhampur
(b)Distance
  • Dras to Sonamarg – 65 kms
  • Sonamarg to Srinagar – 95 kms
  • Srinagar to Ramban – 150 kms
  • Ramban to Udhampur – 55 kms
  • Total Distance – 365 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Good & wide BT road from Dras to Zojila with minor bad stretches short of Zojila.
  • 5-6 kms of bad & broken stretch immediately after crossing Zojila down till Baltal.
  • Good road further through picturesque Sonamarg valley.
  • Long isolated stretches of absolutely nothing enroute from Sonamarg to Srinagar (Due to post Article 370 removal scenario in J&K).
  • Srinagar to Qazigund is excellent 4-Lane road with divider, then road climbs upto Banihal still in good condition (Traffic increases).
  • Mountainous BT road in good condition continues till Ramban with heavy traffic.
  • Ramban to Udhampur is decent BT road with few bad/under construction stretches (Patnitop tunnel reduces the distance by almost 40-50 kms).
(d)Driving/Riding Time10-11 hours
(e)Average Speed40-45 kmph
(f)Highest Altitudes3600 m (Zoji La)
(g)Highlights
  • Zoji La pass (Border between Ladakh & Kashmir) and picturesque Sonamarg valley.
  • Two ‘state-of-the-art’ tunnels of Banihal & Patnitop (3 more tunnels in making).
  • The ‘original’ paradise capital of Srinagar.
(h)Difficult Patches
  • 5-6 kms of broken & bad stretch post Zojila till descent to Baltal.
  • 10-15 kms stretch prior to Udhampur is under widening and is full of dust.
(j)Halts/Food
  • In Plenty throughout the route.
  • Sonamarg for B’fast.
  • Lunch at Srinagar / Qazigund (Look for Wazwaan places).
(k)SupportAvailable through the route (Both medical & fuel)
(l)Detours
  • Mushkoh Valley.
  • Baltal – Amarnath Yatra.
  • Gulmarg – Baramulla – Wular Lake.
  • Khrew / Dachigam National Park & Pahalgam Axis.
  • Kishtwar & Doda circuit.
(m)Stay Options
  • Sonamarg (Lots of tourist camps/resorts/hotels).
  • Srinagar & Ramban (both Army & civil accomodation).
  • Udhampur (both Army & civil accomodation).
(n)Misc Info
  • An extremely picturesque detour is towards Mushkoh Valley (In full flower bloom in the months of Jul & Aug).
  • BRO carries out maintenance of bad stretches in-between (spl between Zojila & Sonamarg) – Check timings before-hand to avoid delay/wait on road (Mostly 10-2).
  • Sonamarg has loads of adventure activities as well as treks.
  • If not staying/visiting Srinagar, it’s better to take complete bye-pass via Ganderbal & Sumbal to reach 4-lane highway of Qazigund (Be careful about protests though).
  • Carry own food/water for all day in case Srinagar & valley is shut down.

11. Udhampur – Pathankot – Chandigarh

(a)RouteUdhampur – Nagrota – Jammu – Samba – Lakhanpur – Pathankot – Mukerian – Dasuya – Hoshiarpur – Mahilpur – Balachaur – Ropar – Kurali – Chandigarh
(b)Distance
  • Udhampur to Samba – 105 kms
  • Samba to Pathankot – 70 kms
  • Pathankot to Hoshiarpur – 100 kms
  • Hoshiarpur to Balachaur – 70 kms
  • Balachaur to Chandigarh – 70 kms
  • Total Distance – 415 kms
(c)Road Conditions
  • Udhampur to Samba is newly constructed excellent 4-lane highway with divider.
  • Further to Pathankot & till Dasuya is again good 4-lane highway.
  • Leave highway at Dasuya for Hoshiarpur & Balachaur, which is good BT 2-lane road with heavy traffic and city bottlenecks.
  • Balachaur onwards is again 4-lane road to Ropar & Chandigarh.
(d)Driving/Riding Time8-9 hours
(e)Average Speed50-60 kmph
(f)Highest AltitudesAll plains
(g)HighlightsNone really
(h)Difficult PatchesNone really
(j)Halts/Food
  • In Plenty throughout the route
  • B’fast at Pahalwan di Hatti Jammu
  • Lunch at Hoshiarpur (Good Non Veg)
(k)SupportAvailable through the route (Both medical & fuel)
(l)Detours
  • Katra & Vaishno Devi
  • Maharana Pratap Sagar Dam
  • Amritsar & Jallandhar
  • Una & Bakhra-Nangal Dam
(m)Stay OptionsAvailable in plenty through the route
(n)Misc Info
  • If not in hurry, can take Dhar-Udhampur road till Samba (Much shorter & scenic).
  • The traffic & weather changes drastically on this stretch.

FEW GOLDEN RULES

  1. Know yourself, your driving/riding skills & your car/bike well.
  2. Always be prepared with advance planning/maps/documents/checklists etc.
  3. Never be in hurry to rush through tricky sections of the road – Be deliberate in crossing them.
  4. Never ever drink & drive – Always have good night’s sleep before embarking on any journey.
  5. Be well acclimatised in high altitudes & carry adequate medical supplies.
  6. Be self-sufficient in terms of spares & essential items – both related to yourself & your vehicle.
  7. Plan your food, fuel & stay in advance.
  8. Never be over confident – in any circumstance.

BIKE RIDE CHECK LIST

1. Imp Documents
  • RC, DL & Insurance (original)
  • Cash & Cards
  • Trip Itinerary
  • Maps/Directions
  • Duplicate copies of RC, DL, Insurance, Aadhar etc (3 copies each)
  • PP photos (5)
2. Bike Items
  • Bike Spare Keys
  • Basic Bike Tool Kit inside
  • Helmet
  • Bungee Chords
  • Saddle Bags
  • Bike backpack/Sling bag
  • Safety Chain Lock
  • Mobile Holder (Fixed)
  • Go Pro Camera
  • Small spray for cleaning visor
3. Riding Gear & Accessories
  • Riding Jacket & Riding Pants
  • Riding Boots
  • Knee Guards
  • Riding Gloves (Full/Half/Winter)
  • Bandana, Balcalava & Buff
  • Bike Glasses & Goggles
  • Rain Gear (Poncho & Pants)
  • Rain Boot Covers
  • Riding Black T-Shirts
  • Leather & Other Jackets
4. Other Utility Items
  • Air Foot Pump
  • Plastic Bags & Garbage Bags
  • M Seal / Fevi Kwik / Packing Tape
  • Nylon Ropes & Bungy Cords
  • Swiss Knife / Cutter / Scissors
  • Torches / LED Lamps / Head Lamps
  • Air Mats & Pillows / Emergency blanket
  • Mobile Chargers / USB Cables / Power Bank / Multi Pin Plugs
  • Pen Drives / SD Cards
  • Bluetooth Earphones with charging unit
  • Bluetooth Speaker with Aux Cable
  • Pencil Cells (AAA & AA)
  • Sleeping Bags & Mats
  • Water Bottles & Zip Locks
  • Extra Lock & Key
  • Multi Pocket Tool Kit
5. Misc Adm Items
  • Energy Bars / Biscuits / Dry Fruits
  • Gums / Mints / Glucon D / ORS
  • Coffee Powder / Tea Bags / Milk Powder / Sugar sachets / Soup Packets
  • Other Snacks / Chips / Namkeen
  • Juices & Alcohol
6. Personal Clothing Items
  • Jeans / Cargo / Long Shorts / Shorts
  • Jackets / Sweat Shirts / T-Shirts
  • Harem Pants / Lowers / Inners
  • Trekking Shoes / Sports Shoes
  • Undergarments / Socks / Hankies / Gloves
  • Caps / Belts / Swimming Trunks
  • Towels / Hand Towels
7. Personal Other Items
  • Basic Bathroom Kit
  • Sun Screen / Mosquito Repellent / Hand wash
  • Extra Tissue Rolls / Wet wipes
  • Writing Material
  • Specs & Gogs
8. Medicines
  • Crocin Pain Relief / Combiflam (Headaches)
  • Paracetamol / Wikoryl (Fever / Cold)
  • Unienzyme & Aciloc (Stomach / Acidity)
  • Norflox TZ (Loose Motions)
  • Digene & Cetrizin
  • Vomistop (Vomiting)
  • Diamox 250mg (AMS)
  • Amoxycilin (Anti Biotic)
  • Betadine / Neospirin (Wounds)
  • Band Aid / Crape Bandage
  • Clocip / Micoderm (Anti Fungal Powder)
  • Detol / Savlon / Boroline
  • Volini / Moov Spray & Gel
9. Spare Parts / Tool Kit
  • Fuel Jerry Cans
  • Engine Oil (10 ltrs)
  • Brake Oil (100ml)
  • Disc / Brake Pads
  • Accelerator & Clutch wires
  • Chain spray & Lube
  • Spare chain link set
  • Clutch plate set
  • Spare tubes & Tube Valves
  • Fuses (All types)
  • Headlight & Tail light Bulbs
  • Petrol filling Pipe / Funnel
  • Air Filter & Fuel Filter
  • Basic Spanners & Screw Drivers
  • Puncture Kit (incl puncture patches/adhesive/lever)
  • Grease / Electrical tape / Electrical wire

SPARE PARTS

S.No.ItemQuantityRemarks
1Fuel Jerry Cans (Plastic – 20 Ltr capacity)063 each for Petrol & Diesel
2Engine Oil10 Ltrs
3Brake Oil100 ml
4Disc / Brake PadsOne Set eachFor both front & rear
5Accelerator & Clutch wiresOne set eachPre-fitted on Bike
6Chain spray & Lube01 eachOne bottle & One tube
7Spare chain link set01Few addl chain locks
8Clutch plate set01
9Spare tubes & Tube Valves01/05
10Fuses (All types)1002 of each type
11Headlight Bulbs02
12Tail light Bulbs02
13Petrol filling Pipe / Funnel01 SetSmall pipe & funnel for filling
14Air Filter & Fuel Filter01 each
15Basic Spanners & Screw DriversAs per reqd
16Puncture Kit (incl puncture patches/adhesive/lever)01 Complete Set
17Grease / Electrical tape / Electrical wireAs per reqd
18Foot Pump01
19Spark Plugs02 eachTwo Plugs of each type

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