BOHEMIAN ROAD TRIP : EASTERN EUROPE BIKE RIDE

TOTAL DURATION : 14 Days ROUTE / CIRCUIT : Warsaw – Krakow – Prague – Cesky Krumlov – Salzburg – Vienna – Budapest – Bratislava – Prague

TOTAL DISTANCE COVERED – Approx 2350 Kms

TOTAL EXPENDITURE : Rs 3,10,000 Approx

A motorcycle trip in the European sojourn was on my ‘Bucket List’ for a very long time, and yet again, as always, for a bike ride on foreign soil, I always turn to my mentor Mike Sir. It so happened that Viktorianz was planning this Bohemian Road Trip (on Hybrid Model of both 2-wheelers & 4-wheelers) in the beautiful autumn months of September-October 2023. Their plan was to cover four of the Eastern European countries of this picturesque region, and I threw in another one to make it five countries over a two-week period. It was a trip deliberately avoiding tourists and the urban din, preferring to ride along a river or through forests or farmlands on local roads or through picturesque mountainous valleys. I absolutely love this kind of life, where it unfolds dramatically on a daily basis, with constantly changing contexts and contours. This trip was a mesmerising and charming Bike Ride, covering about 2500 kilometers over twelve odd days on a Swanky Black Honda 750cc which was my partner-on-wheels.

This Eastern Europe Motorcycle Trip combined the scenic beauty of the Hungarian & Bohemian country sides with the historic charm of medieval towns. Be it World Heritage sites or roadside markets; gourmet food or local brews in cozy taverns; the rivers, lakes, old town squares or the architectural gems of Budapest, Prague, Salzburg, Vienna, Bratislava, Krakow; or the picturesque small medieval towns such as Cesky Krumlov, Tihany, Kutna Hora & Hallstatt – this road trip swept me off the feet and left me wishing if I could stay back forever here. This ‘non-touristy’ part of Europe has some of the best architecture on display & the countryside as picturesque as it can be. The culture & history as well as varied local flavours in food and drinks will blow your mind, and on top of that there is a nightlife on offer which is unmatched. Trips that begin on a happy note usually tend to continue in the same vein.

So, it’s with one of my favourite hard rock tracks by Metallica, “Wherever I May Roam”, on my lips that me along with this wonderful group of fellow travellers, road-trippers and bikers, set off for what was surely going to be another memorable trip in the series of “Confessions of a Traveloholic”.

Polska : Be Enchanted I landed on a beautiful autumn evening at Warsaw, as Poland was the fifth country I had added in the Viktorianz itinerary being covered on my own. Stretching from the Baltic Sea to the Carpathian Mountains, Poland is a big country with a wide variety of landscapes and an ever-present sense of history. The ancient royal capital of Krakow, with its peerless castle, and the painstakingly restored Old Town in Warsaw, which had been bombed to dust and rubble by the end of WWII, are perhaps the best examples of the Polish pride in its history. There are lots of off-the-beaten-track destinations to discover in Poland, from picturesque mountain villages lost in time to big towns where tourists and foreigners are still not as many as other parts of mainstream Europe. Poland is still cheap by Western European standards, and it represents excellent value for budget travellers like me.

Checking into my unique “Box Stay” at Kapsula Hostel in Warsaw was just the beginning of series of these experiences this cultural & historic city has to offer. Taking the Szlak Krolewski, aptly called the ‘Royal Walk’, was definitely one of the top must-do’s in Warsaw. This 4km route connecting the Royal Castle with Lazienki Park, can either be walked or done by jumping on and off Bus No 180, which is known as the ‘Royal Way Bus’ in the budget travellers’ dictionaries. Warsaw was all about soaking in the history from the majestic Royal Castle to the amazing views of entire Old Town from St Anne’s Church Tower. The Old Town forms the historic nucleus of Warsaw, and almost all tourist attractions, as well as the lion’s share of tourist facilities, are on this side of Vistula River. A ride in one of the traditional wooden ‘creaky’ boats is also an interesting activity while here in the Polish capital. Warsaw’s many museums and galleries, and the ever-increasing rollcall of good quality restaurants and bars, ensure that there’s plenty to keep the tourists occupied for several days.

A swift and picturesque train journey by the efficient Polish Rail brought me to “Hitler’s favourite city” and the party-hub of Eastern Europe – Krakow. The 2km walk from train station brought me to my cozy little hostel right in the heart of Old Town, overlooking the magnificent Rynek Glowny which is known to be the largest medieval town square in entire Europe. The Old Town area with its Gothic churches, dominated by 16th century Renaissance Cloth Hall, and the splendid Wawl Castle a short walk away, is extremely popular with foreign tourists. The daytime was spent exploring Krakow, and the evenings experiencing its vibrant and buzzing nightlife. The city is hoarded by Polish and other Europeans during the weekends (and I happened to be there on a weekend), who flock this medieval town in large numbers.

Czechia : Land of Stories

Next day morning a 7-hour long train journey saw me change countries from Poland to Czech Republic, a country of fairytale castles, forests and fishponds, medieval towns and Renaissance chateaux. There’s a rich heritage to explore, unravel Czech history and you will get a deeper understanding of Europe as a whole, with added bonus of the world’s finest beer to lubricate debate. And at the centre of it all lies Prague, one of the most beautiful and cultured cities in the world. Magic, golden, mystical are some of the words used to describe Prague – the City of a Thousand Spires, Queen of Music, famed for Kafka, the Violet Revolution and the world’s best beers. The locals call her Matika Prague, ‘Little Mother Prague’, the cradle of Czech cultutre and one of Europe’s most beautiful and fascinated cities. The tourist brochure tends to go overboard when describing the Czech capital, but the city lives up to its hype.

There’s a maze of medieval lanes to explore here, riverside parks for picnics, lively bars and beer gardens, jazz clubs, rock venues, museums and art galleries galore. Prague is a must-see stop on Europe’s backpacker trail. Beware though – Prague is a city that gets under your skin, and many people stay longer than they planned. As Kafka once wrote – “This little mother has claws”. Central Prague nestles in a bend of the Vltava River, which separates the medieval castle district, and Little Quarter on the west bank from Stare Mesto (Old Town) and Nove Mesto (New Town) on the east. Prague Castle remains the top choice for doing the ‘touristy thing’ here. The secret tip is that wandering around the castle courtyards, the gardens and the cathedral nave is free of charge, along with witnessing the changing of guard at noon.

The most iconic and maybe the most-visited attraction in Prague has to be the famous and elegant Charles Bridge (Karluv Most), graced by statues dating from the 18th century, and lined with an array of stalls, caricature artists and the odd jazz band performing at the bridge. And that’s where my quirky little BnB was located, right at one edge of this iconic bridge, tucked into the corner. I stayed there for a day before joining the rest of the road trip group at Grand Majestic Hotel. An interesting mix of travellers formed this Bohemian Road Trip group, from solo backpackers to adventurous bikers, and from first-time road trippers to couples looking for that perfect getaway. Being one of the youngest in the lot and maybe one of the ‘most-travelled’, apart from Mike Sir, I was automatically chosen for the ‘Go-To Man’ for almost everything. A little bit of pre-research about the destinations and various ‘local flavoured’ experiences including some famous festivals, assisted me in being that prefect guide to everybody.

One such example was the local wine & food festival at Strelecky Island, a broad grassy swathe on a low-lying island beside the river, one of the city’s favourite chill-out zones. Here we spent a lovely afternoon savouring some local produce and enjoyed local band performances. Our guided walking tour later in the day took us around the city’s best-known sights and our guide narrated interesting facts and stories behind each of the landmarks. Our guide started the tour from outside the Powder Tower at Namesti Republiky, and the four-hour tour was split into two parts : the Old Town and the Jewish Quarter, then the lesser town and Prague Castle. The evening brought us to this Czechiest Czech restaurant for some authentic local cuisine. The clientele of local students and office workers clearly appreciate the competitively priced traditional Czech cuisine which is strong on meat, dumplings and gravy, and weak on fresh vegetables. Prague is also a beer drinker’s paradise – where else could you get top-quality Pilsner cheaper than a glass of juice or a bowl of soup?

After a quick HOHO Bus Tour in the first part of the day, we picked up our superbikes and rented cars, and soon we were zooming on the E50 highway that goes all the way to Brno. We made a quick drive through the delightful town of Ceske Budejovice, which literally means ‘Budweis’ in German and is a must-do stop on the Bohemian Beer Trail, famous as the home of Budweiser Budvar lager. A breezy 180km ride brought us to Cesky Krumlov, one of the most picturesque towns in Europe. This dreamy little town is an absolute delight to the eyes and an ‘addictive’ place for walkers. As soon as we arrived, we went on a walking tour exploring the bye lanes of the town with our very enthusiastic local walking tour guide who took us all the way up to the fairytale Cesky Krumlov Castle. The view from top clearly shows how the old town is almost encircled by a looping bend of the Vltava River, watched over by the chateau sprawling along a ridge above the west bank. Our evening was spent sitting at a riverside tavern in the shadows of the imposing castle and sipping on some of the local ‘herbal’ liquors such as Becherovka & Fernet Lemond.

Austria : Arrive and Revive

Austria is that unspoiled country that loves to spoil you. It likes to consider itself twinning with California these days, but it couldn’t be more different. And it’s not just that a certain Arnold Schwarzenegger’s homeland offers mountains and snow instead of sun and surf. As a cultural bastion of ‘Old Europe’, it still clings to its very un-Californian traditions of caffeine, cigarettes and calorific cuisine. It’s the country’s refusal to bow down to the diktats of the modern world that attracts so many visitors, wooed by the historic treasures of the former Habsburg empire or by the sounds of Mozart and Strauss. Austria does have a forward-looking side too, with the modern art Museums Quarter in Vienna and the architecturally adventurous Salzburg town being just two examples.

It was a long ride traversing through three countries over more than 300kms in a single day, as we moved out of Czech townships and entered the Austrian countryside. We could easily notice that ordinary Austrians are great lovers of the outdoors, as we could see most of them hitting the hills or the riverside or the forests for some outdoor activity or the other. More than half of Austria is mountainous with three chains running west to east – the Northern, Central and the Southern Alps. The landscape around the Danube Valley which we descended into is comparatively flat. The Passau town in Germany, where we halted for lunch, was buzzing with holiday-makers from across the globe. This riverside town is where three rivers confluence into the Danube. Post the lunch break, it was a ride down south all along German-Austrian border.

The town which is identified more with Mozart and the movie Sound of Music than anything else, Salzburg was our next destination. The joke – “If it’s baroque, don’t fix it”, would make a perfect motto for Salzburg. Its picturesque old town is nestled below steep hills and looks much as it did when Mozart was born here, presenting postcard vistas from every angle. With no organized city tour guide here, I had to take on the responsibility, as we embarked on a lovely walking tour covering the baroque Schloss Mirabell (Mirabell Palace), Mozart’s Geburtzhaus (Birthplace) and his Wohnhaus (Residence), all the way to the old town under the shadows of the landmark fortress. Later we packed up some local munchies and spent the time by the River Salzach, listening to some old Bollywood numbers, before calling the day off.

The Salzkammergut is Austria’s Lake District, which was our stopover the next day before we headed to the stunning Austrian capital of Vienna. The twin-delights of Austria’s Lake District are Bad Ischl and Hallstatt. While Bad Ischl is the region’s geographical centre and transport hub, Hallstatt is its true jewel. Come winter, this place is swarming with skiers, snowboarders, tobogganists, and all other snow-sport crazies. On the flip side, the summers are even crazier, as more than half the visitors come to Austria’s Lake District in the summer. June, July & August is when there’s peak summer traffic, so I was thanking my stars that we were here in the month of October. If you are anything like me, the shoulder months are your best bet. Also, considering Salzkammergut is just 60-odd kms east of Salzburg, you can easily tick off the Salzburg box if that’s your thing as well.

The other delight of Austria’s Lake District is Hallstatt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and majorly touristy now, it clings to a steep mountainside beside a placid lake. A walk along the lake right through the heart of this quaint little village is as delightful as you can get in the entire trip. Hallstatt is a lakeside retreat of just few hundred souls, a few villages, a place where pace of life seldom nudges above the lower end of the speedometer. Unfortunately, the heavy influx of travellers and tourists in last few years and the tagline of “World’s Most Clicked Spot” has invaded the calmness and quietness of the place. Further into the Danube Valley, the theme really took off when we entered Austria’s picturesque Wachau Valley, a World Heritage Site. Terraced vineyards, ruined castles and medieval towns line the River Danube’s most picturesque stretch between Krems and Melk. White wines from this region are very highly rated internationally, particularly the top end Gruner Veltliners and Rieslings.

Checking into the old family-run Hotel Kugel in the Austrian capital was an absolute delight that evening. Vienna has always been a unique capital city, mixing conservatism with decadence. There’s so much to do here that any number of days will seem less. Avoid tourist traps and you can make the most of the Austrian capital, all without even burning a hole in your pocket. You can explore an auction house that doubles as a museum or catch a spectacular performance by the legendary Vienna Boys’ Choir and dig into Viennese eats like goulash & schnitzel with potato salad.

Our first introduction to the Austrian capital was through a wind-shield tour of the city on a cute little Hop On-Hop Off Bus. If New York is ‘Big Apple’, Vienna’s like the big Wedding Cake – a wonderfully rich indulgence packed with galleries and museums. My type of ‘Budget Traveller’ initially got intimidated by the city’s art, opera and classical music, but a quick insight into Vienna’s rich architectural history does leave scope for free sightseeing as well. Don’t be overwhelmed by the cornucopia of things to do and see in Vienna; you can experience the best of these in a couple of days. Naschmarkt is where I took along few like-minded fellow travellers, it’s the market where best of the local Austrian food and drinks stalls are joined by a flea market. We had a sumptuous lunch in an outdoor café here with varied types of Spritz on offer and some famous Viennese Schnitzels. A wonderful surprise awaited us as we got off from our HOHO bus at Prater Park where the annual Kaiser Wiesn Festival (Vienna Oktoberfest) was going on. Some careful pre-research into the local happenings ensured that the evening was spent with beer, beer & more beer, along with some rocking local live music and loads of dancing.

It was time to switch countries yet again as we continued our ride towards Hungary the next day. Between Vienna and Budapest, the Danube breaks through the Pilis and Borzsony Hills in a sharp bend. Here medieval kings once ruled Hungary from majestic palaces overlooking the river. Today the historic monuments, rolling green scenery and souvenir craft shops lure day-trippers and tourists travelling from Budapest to Vienna or vice versa. Beyond the Bakony Hills in an area bounded by the Danube and the Alps, we entered an enchanting corner of Hungary which contains picturesque small towns, like Sopron and Sumeg, which has decidedly Austro-Hungarian Empire air. One such gem of a stopover in this region is Lake Balaton, which lies southwest of Budapest and is the largest freshwater lake in Europe outside Scandinavia. Balaton’s popularity is such that accommodation, restaurants and beaches are packed with Hungarians and Austrians during holiday season in summer months. No visit to Hungary is complete without visiting Lake Balaton, the ‘Hungarian Sea’, to experience stunning views, picturesque vineyards and of course, a refreshing dip in its emerald-green waters and some culinary experience. We got this experience at the stunning Echo restaurant boasting of arguably the best location in all of Tihany.

WOW Hungary : Wellspring of Wonders

Perennially caught between east and west, Hungary is a fascinating mixture of customs and contexts. Cosmopolitan Budapest, a cultural capital to rival any, is only a few hours train or motorcycle ride from rural villages where horse carts and bicycles are the common mode of transport. In this compact country, you can see Turkish mosques (sometimes turned into Catholic churches), Roman ruins, sprawling baroque palaces and communist-era concrete block architecture. This is the land that produced Franz Liszt and Bartok Bela, but you are just as likely to hear Romani (Gypsy) music at a restaurant or American pop on the radio. Although Hungary is no longer as reasonably priced as her Eastern European neighbours, it’s still possible to drink and eat well and cheaply, especially if you get out of Budapest. So, whether you are interested in Western European sophistication or Eastern European simplicity, Hungary is likely to have at least a little of whatever you are looking for.

A commerce-rich city, Budapest was awaiting us, where about a fifth of the nation’s residents reside. Despite its growth, this city retains a strong sense of history. Stroll up Andrassy Utca (on the UNESCO World Heritage List) to see ornate 19th century mansions; admire the leaders of the Hungarian past at Heroes Square, climb Castle Hill to discover the few remaining medieval buildings or seek out the Roman ruins at Aquincum. Originally three cities, Budapest straddles a gentle curve in the Danube River, with hilly, house-filled Buda to the west, suburban Obuda to the northwest and flat, commercial Pest across the river to the east. In today’s Budapest glass-encased shopping centres stand beside ancient buildings, and mobile phones are everywhere. So, soak in a centuries-old thermal bath in the daytime and then party hard at one of many Hungarian ‘ruin clubs’ rivalling any in Western Europe by night. Budapest is constantly evolving, and that’s the best thing about this city – it’s old–school but exciting.

We did all that over the next two days, and much more. Apart from the usual touristy HOHO tour and getting lost in the huge Grand Central Market Hall, we indulged in some more locally brewed beer at ‘Budapest Oktoberfest’ and experiencing the best of Hungarian capital evenings of night Danube Boat Cruise along with a self-curated ‘Pub Crawl’ on one of the nights hopping from one Ruin Pub to another, from Udvar Rom to Dobaz to Instant Fogas to Mazel Tov. These ‘Ruin Pubs & Bars’ are must-do experiences, few of these, such as Instant Fogas, so huge with more than 30 rooms and seven bars on three different levels, with underground DJs and dance parties, indoor sporting arenas and live bands, everything happening at the same time. The city is also famous for being a gastronomical delight for locals and tourists alike. Fast-food restaurants, ‘to go’ windows and food stands abound on the roads are noteworthy. For budgetary and economical options, keep a lookout for ‘grills’ serving gyros and other grilled meats at self-service counters. On one of the ‘after-party’ nights, the juniormost & seniormost of the group tried out some traditional cheese & bacon Longos at Night Karavan Street Market.

Slovakia : Under the Shadows of Tatra

The road beyond Budapest going into the second part of erstwhile Czechoslovakia, is a region of rocky hillocks and scrubby badlands, Fejer Province almost looks like it’s been involved in some geographical mix up – a chunk of the American West accidentally transplanted to the Balkan Penninsula. In fact, it counts among wildest corners on Hungary-Slovakia borders, a place whose remotest reaches were known only to roving shepherds until roads reached here in the 1950s. The coldest part of entire Bohemian Ride ensured that all the balance of bike-gear in terms of jackets, gloves etc were brought out to negotiate this portion of the journey.

Whimsical folk music and rickety horse-drawn carts, snow-clad summits and Stalinist suburbs – the cliched images of this quiet corner of Central Europe cast Slovakia as a bizarre blend of idyllic rural and Soviet-infused Moscow. This small Eastern European nation stayed under the shadows of erstwhile Czechoslovakia for a long time. Today, Slovakia remains a nation with two distinct halves. While the free market beams some Slovakians into a world of fickle fashion and status symbols, many others continue to live a life that has remained unchanged for decades, keeping alive the vibrant folk traditions that might otherwise have vanished. This is a country of towering mountains and thick forests, where history is lived rather than just remembered. Religious, conservative and proud, most Slovakians have a strong sense of identity and an insatiable appetite for folk culture. Culminating in the forested valleys and icy peaks of the Vysoke Tatry (High Tatras), Slovakia is a country punctured by pockets of weepy natural beauty.

As we rode into the capital city of Slovakia, Bratislava, which is still reverberating from the highs and lows from the country’s roller-coaster ride through history, we could clearly notice that Bratislava’s small old town harks back to stately days of imperial grandeur, while gigantic suburban housing projects stand like tombstones to the days of communist-era oppression. Yet the centre fizzes with the Eurochic trimmings that have come in the wake of EU accession and a growing sense of economic confidence. For travellers tired of ogling the sights of its other ‘elder & more famous’ cousins, Budapest and Prague, down-to-earth Bratislava, roughly halfway between the two and largely devoid of tourists, offers an ideal, and more economical, reality check.

After a quick check-in at our Loft Hotel, we started our guided walking tour with our pretty tour guide who took us to the Presidential Palace, from where we could get lovely view of the main city castle. As we made our way through couple of narrow lanes, the modern structures suddenly gave way to an old bridge, and we were immediately transported to the old town through the majestic St Michael’s Gate. As we penetrated the main street of old town, it brought us to Hlavne Nam which has the old Town Hall on one side. Another uniquely interesting sight to visit is the Reduta Palace, which is now Bratislava’s main concert hall, with the flamboyant Slovak National Theatre up ahead on Hviezdoslavovo Nam. You know that your walking tour has culminated successfully, when you get to hear two local musicians strumming out Floyd’s Wish You Were Here, my personal favourite, right in the heart of Old Town main square.

It was a mixed feeling as I woke up the next day. While there was an overwhelming flow of emotions mainly consisting of happiness and joy, of been able to experience some of the most beautiful and picturesque part of Eastern Europe, that too on a motorcycle, but the sadness crept in as we realized that it’s the last day of Riding. The weather Gods were also in sync as the last day of riding saw the rains pouring on the E-50 highway making the riding conditions a bit difficult. We braved the chilly weather and took a detour after Brno into the Czech countryside towards a town that rivalled Prague as the most important town in Bohemia in the 14th century, Kutna Hora. Today it’s an attractive medieval town with several fascinating and unusual historic attractions. It is truly an ‘unusual’ town, as only a 10-minute walk south from Kutna Hora train station will take you to the remarkable Sedlec Kostnice. This chapel crypt contains the bones of more than 50,000 people arranged in the form of pyramids, garlands, a chandelier, and even the Schwarzenberg coat of arms, it is truly a macabre sight. Kutna Hora’s greatest monument is the Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, which rivals Prague’s St Vitus in size and magnificence.

Eastern Europe : The Bohemian Wonderland

I strongly feel that biking should not be bound by National boundaries. This ‘Off-the-Beaten-Path’ Road Trip in Eastern Europe, “The Bohemian Bike Trip” has such a diverse highlight on its platter – Czech and Austrian Alps, nightlife of Poland, the Hungarian countryside and the historical towns of Prague, Salzburg, Vienna, Budapest and Krakow. Gawk at the medieval architecture, visit the numerous cathedrals and churches, gape at ornate palaces and the treasures within, get history lessons at variety of museums and galleries, glug beer by the litre at one of the many breweries or beer gardens, gorge on deliciously unique Bohemian cuisine and boogie the night away at one many hip and happening clubs – that’s what this entire Bohemian Circuit of Eastern and Central Europe offers. The association with a city or a town or even a village is stronger when you walk or cycle around it. My idea of knowing a place is to assimilate rather than assert being different. That’s what we did in each & every city or town in the Bohemian region, in similarity to what the locals would do – find free parking for our bikes and then stroll through places.

An important takeaway from this trip was to plan your dates around some local festivals and events in each of the destinations. The two Oktoberfests (Vienna & Budapest) were the highlight of the trip, not only for the beer enthusiasts but others as well. These local festivals are frequented more by local Austrian, Hungarians, Czech & Slovaks rather than tourists, making them even more special. The conversations here usually transcend language barriers by the end of the day, when a lot of beer has gone down. The festivals were a great way to not only taste the types of home-brewed beer but explore the local culture and music and interact with the locals, a possibility often ruled out in hurried sightseeing trips. With this epic Road Trip specially curated by Mike Sir & the Viktorianz, you will step outside the touristy Europe, to drive and ride through rolling hills & river valleys of Eastern Europe, tour breweries, appreciate picturesque medieval villages, gawk at magnificent chateaus and castles, and indulge in a glass, or two, of the refreshing Bohemian Wine – and all that on Super Bikes.

These few lines from the song mentioned above, Wherever I May Roam by Metallica, comes closest to describing this trip as well as my own personality…

Rover, Wanderer, Nomad, Vagabond…Call me what you will, But I’ll take my Time anywhere…

Free to Speak my Mind anywhere…Never find anywhere,

Anywhere I may Roam…Where I lay my Head is Home…